On to the model.
After making the commitment cut, I moved to the cockpit. The fun of converting a D-model to a C-model is trying to figure out how much of the D model kit can actually be used. Here's a hint: not much. The Mustang C cockpit structure was a little different than the D, which means the kit pieces that contain the structure are going to be scrapped and scavenged for the few components that can be used. Using several photographs, books, station diagrams, and the existing kit parts for reference, I marked what structure will be needed in the C model. I marked the lines extra long at the bottom because in the step my lines will be gone.
The cockpit structure needs to be completely replaced for two reasons. 1: It has to represent a C model and 2: I'm going to make the formers and bulkheads look more realistic than just the rectangular shape slabs stuck to the walls. So I pulled out the handy Dremel with a sanding drum and away it went. Now I wasn't only trying to remove the kit structure references, I was also trying to thin the cockpit wall itself to about half its original thickness. This way when I add the new structure it will look more like the actual aircraft.
Note why the long lines came in handy. I gradually used finer sandpapers to smooth out the side wall and redrew the lines.
Here's the part where I wish I had some magically easy way to explain to people who may not have access to the tools I do, but I don't. Luckily several years ago, I drew accurate fuselage formers for both the Mustang D and C in AutoCAD and had them ready to go after a little scaling. If you don't have this sort of tool, you may just have to take some measurements off the model and grab a couple of books and through some trial and error you can come up with the right shapes for the C-model turtledeck. But even I first printed them out, cut them out, and test fit them in place just in case I needed to tweak them.
After the necessary tweaks, I drafted out the actually parts and printed them out on contact paper. This way I could cut out the parts and stick them to .030" plastic sheet in order to cut them out of plastic. I designed the parts with 3 notches so I could add a few stringers to give a little more support for the skin when its added later.
Cutting these parts can be a major pain on the fingers but its part of the gig. The numbers marked on them are the actual station numbers from the real Mustang.
And now for a test fit of all the parts.
So far so good.
You can tell in this picture the difference between the D and C structure thanks to the kit part next to the handmade Station 200. At this point, I'm not going to glue anything together, even though I probably could. There is a little more sanding and tweaking needed before I do that.
I'm not going to do anything else with these parts for the time being. Next up I'm going to concentrate on making the new cockpit formers with what will hopefully by the next trick in my box....the world's smallest vacuform machine. Making that will be an article unto itself.
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